Silk

 

What exactly is silk?

Silk is a natural protein fibre produced by certain insects to build cocoons. Humans harvest this fibre and spin it into thread to make textiles such as clothing, bedding, and upholstery.

How Silk Is Made

The most common silk comes from the silkworm Bombyx mori.

The larva spins a cocoon using a liquid protein secreted from special glands.

This liquid hardens when exposed to air, forming a fine, continuous filament.

The cocoon is then carefully unwound to create silk thread.

A single cocoon can produce hundreds of meters of silk fibre.

What is silk made of?

Silk fibres are primarily composed of two natural proteins:

Fibroin – the structural protein that forms the core of the fibre

Sericin – a gummy substance that binds the fibres together

During processing, much of the sericin is removed, leaving the smooth silk filament used for fabric.

Key Characteristics of Silk

Silk is valued because it has unique natural properties:

Very smooth and soft

Naturally shiny (lustrous)

Lightweight but strong

Breathable and temperature-regulating

Good moisture absorption

These features make silk comfortable for use in clothing, bedding, and other luxury fabrics.

Different Types of Silk

Silk can come from different species of silkworms, including:

Mulberry silk – from the domesticated silkworm Bombyx mori

Tussar silk – produced by wild silkworms like Antheraea mylitta

Eri silk – from Samia ricini

Each type differs in texture, shine, and fibre structure.

In simple terms, silk is a luxurious natural fibre made from the cocoons of silkworms, known for its smoothness, strength, and natural sheen.

 

How was silk discovered, and what made it so popular for centuries, literally?

Mulberry silk has been with us since the beginning of time, well, 2640 BC to be specific, when a silkworm cocoon fell into the Chinese Empress's cup of tea. The teenage wife of Emperor Huangdi, Empress Xi Lingshi, was sitting in her garden underneath a Mulberry tree, drinking tea. As she watched it dissolve, she saw that the cocoon was made of a single long, translucent thread.

The rest is history, and what an impressive story this little bug has!

Ahimsa silk is a method of nonviolent silk breeding and harvesting. Wild silk moths are bred, rather than the domestic variety. It allows the completion of the metamorphosis of the silkworm to its moth stage, whereas most silk harvesting requires the silkworms to be killed in their cocoon stage.

No animals suffer or die for the silk to be produced, making it a favourable alternative to normal silk for those who object to harming animals. Shouldn’t we all?

Some silks that fall under the Ahimsa umbrella include ‘Eri silk’ and ‘Tussar silk’.

 

Natural silk is one of the oldest and most valued textiles in the world

1. It Comes From Silkworms

Natural silk is produced by the larvae of the moth Bombyx mori.

The silkworm spins a cocoon made of a single continuous silk filament to protect itself during metamorphosis.

Humans harvest this filament and unwind it to make silk thread.

2. Origins in Ancient China

Silk production (sericulture) began in China around 3000 BCE.
For centuries, China kept the production process secret, making silk one of the most valuable luxury goods in the ancient world.

3. Extremely Fine but Strong

Silk fibres are:

Very thin (finer than human hair)

Stronger than many natural fibres

Smooth and soft, giving silk its famous luxurious feel.

4. Naturally Shiny

Silk has a natural lustre because its fibre has a triangular-prism structure that reflects light at different angles. This creates the distinctive shine associated with silk fabrics.

5. Highly Breathable and Temperature-Regulating

Silk fabric:

Keeps you cool in warm weather

Provides insulation in cooler conditions

Absorbs moisture without feeling wet

This is why silk is popular for clothing, bedding, and luxury garments.

6. Delicate Care Required

Natural silk needs gentle care:

Usually hand-wash or dry-clean

Avoid strong detergents and high heat

Can weaken when exposed to sunlight or sweat for long periods

7. Different Types of Silk

Mulberry silk (highest quality)

Tussar silk

Eri silk

Muga silk

Each differs depending on the silkworm species and production method.

Fun fact: A single cocoon can produce up to about 900 meters of silk filament, though several filaments are typically combined to make usable thread.

Why is mulberry silk considered the best quality?

Mulberry silk is widely considered the highest-quality silk because of the way it’s produced and the unique characteristics of the fibre.

 

1. Produced by Carefully Fed Silkworms

Mulberry silk comes from the silkworm Bombyx mori, which is raised in controlled conditions and fed only mulberry leaves.
This strict diet allows the worms to produce very consistent, uniform fibres, which improves the quality of the silk thread.

 

2. Long, Continuous Fibres

Mulberry silk fibres are much longer and smoother than most other types of silk.

Benefits of longer fibres:

Fewer joins in the thread

Smoother, softer fabric

Greater durability

This is why mulberry silk feels exceptionally luxurious and silky compared with many other silks.

3. Very Smooth Texture

The fibres are:

Uniform in diameter

Free from rough edges

This produces fabric that is:

Less likely to irritate skin

Ideal for pillowcases, clothing, and bedding

4. Natural Shine

Mulberry silk has a strong natural lustre.
The fibre’s structure reflects light evenly, giving fabrics a soft glow rather than a dull appearance.

5. Stronger and More Durable

Because the fibres are long and uniform, mulberry silk:

Resists fraying

Keeps its shape better

Lasts longer with proper care

6. Hypoallergenic Properties

Mulberry silk is naturally:

Hypoallergenic

Resistant to dust mites and mould

This makes it popular for bedding and sleep products.

7. Purity of the Silk

High-grade mulberry silk products are often labelled “100% mulberry silk” and graded (for example, 6A grade), meaning the silk strands are among the finest and most uniform available.

In short, Mulberry silk is considered the best because it is smoother, stronger, more uniform, and more lustrous than most other silk varieties.

 

How to tell if silk is real or fake?

Many products labelled “silk” are actually synthetic fabrics such as polyester or satin.

1. The Touch Test

Real silk has a very distinctive feel.

Real silk

• Smooth but slightly grippy, not slippery
• Warms quickly when you hold it
• Feels soft and luxurious

Fake silk (polyester/satin)

• Very slippery or plastic-like
• Feels cooler and more rigid

2. The Shine Test

Real silk has a natural lustre.

Real silk

• Shine changes colour depending on the angle of light
• Looks soft and elegant

Fake silk

• Shine looks uniform and overly glossy
• Often appears plastic-like

3. The Wrinkle Test

Gently scrunch the fabric in your hand.

Real silk

• Forms soft wrinkles
• Wrinkles disappear quickly

Fake silk

• Either doesn’t wrinkle at all or stays stiffly creased

4. The Burn Test (Most Reliable but Destructive)

Only try this with a tiny loose thread.

Silk from the silkworm Bombyx mori behaves like a natural protein fibre.

Real silk

• Smells like burning hair
• Turns to soft black ash
• Flame stops quickly when removed

Fake silk

• Smells like burning plastic
• Melts into hard plastic beads
• Continues melting when heated

5. The Label Check

Look carefully at the fabric composition.

Real silk labels

• “100% Silk”
• “100% Mulberry Silk”

Common fake labels

• Polyester
• Rayon
• Satin (this is a weave, not a fibre)

6. The Ring Test (Sometimes Used)

Real silk threads are very fine and flexible.

If you pull a silk thread through a ring:

• Real silk slides easily through
• Thicker synthetic fibres may snag

The difference between mulberry silk, tussar silk, and eri silk.

Mulberry, Tussar, and Eri silk differ mainly in the type of silkworm, diet, texture, and appearance. Here’s a clear comparison:

1. Mulberry Silk (Most Luxurious)

Produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori.

Key characteristics

Very smooth and fine fibers

Bright natural shine

Softest type of silk

Very uniform texture

Diet of silkworm:
Mulberry leaves.

Typical uses

Luxury clothing

Silk pillowcases and bedding

High-end scarves and dresses

Quality level: Highest quality silk overall.

2. Tussar Silk (Wild Silk)

Produced by wild silkworm species such as Antheraea mylitta.

Key characteristics

Coarser and more textured

Matte or dull shine

Natural golden or honey color

Strong but less smooth

Diet of silkworm:
Leaves from trees like arjun, oak, and sal.

Typical uses

Traditional garments

Sarees and ethnic clothing

Decorative fabrics

Quality level: Medium quality, valued more for its natural texture and earthy look.

3. Eri Silk (Peace Silk)

Produced by the silkworm Samia ricini.

Key characteristics

Soft but slightly wool-like

Less shiny

Thicker and heavier fibers

Very warm and durable

Diet of silkworm:
Castor plant leaves.

Unique feature.
Often called “peace silk” because the moth is allowed to leave the cocoon before the silk is processed, meaning the silkworm is not killed during harvesting.

Typical uses

Shawls

Winter clothing

Sustainable fashion

Quality level: Medium quality but valued for ethical and eco-friendly production.

Quick Comparison

Feature	Mulberry Silk	Tussar Silk	Eri Silk
Source	Bombyx mori	Antheraea mylitta	Samia ricini
Texture	Very smooth	Coarse	Soft, wool-like
Shine	High shine	Low shine	Very low shine
Fiber length	Very long	Shorter	Short
Color	Pure white	Golden/brown	Creamy/off-white
Price	Highest	Medium	Medium

Simple way to remember:

Mulberry silk → Smooth, shiny, luxury

Tussar silk → Textured, golden, natural look

Eri silk → Soft, warm, ethical “peace silk”

 

Why are silk pillowcases usually made only from mulberry silk?

Silk pillowcases are usually made from mulberry silk because it provides the best combination of smoothness, durability, and skin- and hair-friendly properties compared with other silk types.

1. Extremely Smooth Surface (Better for Hair)

Mulberry silk is produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, which creates very long, uniform fibres.

Because the fibres are so smooth:

Hair glides across the pillow

Less friction and breakage

Reduced frizz and tangles

Other silks, like tussar, have rougher fibres that can cause more friction.

2. Gentle on Skin

Mulberry silk pillowcases help reduce:

Sleep creases

Skin irritation

The smooth texture means the fabric doesn’t pull on delicate facial skin the way cotton can.

3. Better Moisture Balance

Mulberry silk naturally:

Absorbs less moisture from skin and hair

Helps maintain skin hydration overnight

Cotton pillowcases tend to absorb skincare products and natural oils, while silk keeps more moisture on your skin.

4. Higher Durability

Because mulberry silk fibres are long and uniform, the fabric:

Pills less

Holds its structure longer

Feels smoother even after repeated use

Wild silks often have shorter fibres, which makes them less ideal for pillowcases.

5. Cleaner and Hypoallergenic

Mulberry silk is naturally:

Hypoallergenic

Resistant to dust mites and mould

That makes it popular for people with sensitive skin or allergies.

6. More Consistent Fabric Quality

Mulberry silk is produced under controlled farming conditions, so manufacturers get:

Consistent fibre thickness

Even weave

Predictable softness

Wild silks like tussar can vary a lot in texture and colour, which isn’t ideal for bedding products.

In simple terms, Mulberry silk pillowcases are preferred because they are smoother, softer, more durable, and better for hair and skin than other silk varieties.

 

Understanding 19, 22, and 25 Momme

19 Momme Silk

Lightweight luxury

Characteristics:

• Smooth and soft
• Lighter fabric
• Slightly more delicate

Common uses:

• Silk pillowcases
• Blouses
• Lightweight bedding

Good balance of comfort and affordability.

22 Momme Silk

Premium quality

Characteristics:

• Thicker and more durable
• More luxurious feel
• Longer lifespan

Common uses:

• High-quality pillowcases
• Luxury bedding
• Silk sheets

This is often considered the best balance of softness, durability, and comfort.

25 Momme Silk

Ultra-luxury silk

Characteristics:

• Very dense weave
• Extremely durable
• Rich, heavy feel

Common uses:

• High-end bedding
• Luxury garments
• Premium silk pillowcases

This is usually the highest quality used for bedding.

Quick Comparison

Momme	Feel	Durability	Typical Use
19 mm	Light & soft	Good	Standard silk pillowcases
22 mm	Thick & luxurious	Very good	Premium bedding
25 mm	Dense & heavy	Excellent	Ultra-luxury silk

Why Momme Matters for Pillowcases

Most silk pillowcases use silk produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, often called mulberry silk.

A higher momme means:

• More silk fibres per square inch
• Better durability
• Less tearing or thinning over time

Simple rule when buying silk pillowcases

• 19 momme → good
• 22 momme → premium
• 25 momme → luxury / longest lasting

Silk is a luxurious natural fibre made from silkworm cocoons, known for its smoothness, strength, and natural sheen.

Why silk is actually stronger than steel by weight — a surprising property many people don’t know about.

Silk is often described as “stronger than steel by weight” because of the special molecular structure of the protein that makes up the fibre. It doesn’t mean silk is stronger than steel in absolute terms, but, gram for gram, it can rival or exceed steel's tensile strength.

1. Silk Is Made of Highly Organized Proteins

Silk fibres from the silkworm Bombyx mori are mainly made of the protein fibroin.

Inside the fibre, fibroin molecules form:

Long chains of amino acids

Packed into crystalline β-sheet structures

These structures create very strong molecular bonds that resist pulling forces.

2. Extremely Efficient Molecular Alignment

The protein chains in silk are arranged almost perfectly parallel along the fibre.

This alignment allows the fibre to:

Distribute stress evenly

Prevent weak points

Maintain strength even though the fibre is extremely thin

Think of it like millions of tiny cables running in the same direction.

3. Combination of Strength and Flexibility

Steel is strong but relatively rigid. Silk fibres have a unique combination:

Strong crystalline regions → provide strength

Flexible amorphous regions → allow stretching

Because of this, silk can stretch and absorb energy without breaking, making it both tough and strong.

4. Very Lightweight

Silk fibres are extremely light.

When scientists compare strength per unit weight (strength-to-density ratio), silk performs remarkably well compared with steel.

So while steel is stronger in bulk, silk can outperform steel when comparing equal weights of material.

5. Nature’s High-Performance Material

Many researchers study silk because its structure is so efficient. Scientists are trying to replicate silk proteins for advanced materials used in:

Medical sutures

Biodegradable textiles

Lightweight armor

Aerospace materials

Simple way to think about it: Silk is like a natural nano-engineered fibre — its microscopic protein structure gives it exceptional strength while remaining very light and flexible.

Fun fact: Spider silk (produced by animals like Araneae) can be even stronger and tougher than silkworm silk, which is why scientists are trying to manufacture synthetic spider silk for future materials.

Ahimsa silk 

Ahimsa silk is a type of silk produced using an ethical method that does not kill the silkworm during harvesting. The word “Ahimsa” comes from the principle of non-violence in Indian philosophy.

What Makes Ahimsa Silk Different

In traditional silk production, the silkworm inside the cocoon (often the moth Bombyx mori) is usually killed by heat or steam so that the silk filament can be unwound as a single long thread.

With Ahimsa silk:

The silkworm is allowed to complete its life cycle.

The moth naturally emerges from the cocoon.

The remaining cocoon fibres are then spun into silk yarn.

Because the cocoon is broken when the moth exits, the fibres are shorter, so they must be spun like cotton or wool instead of reeled as one long filament.

Key Characteristics of Ahimsa Silk

Cruelty-free / non-violent production

Slightly less smooth and shiny than conventional silk

Often softer and more textured

Usually more breathable

The fabric often feels closer to fine cotton or light wool than glossy silk.

 

Relationship to Eri Silk

Ahimsa silk is commonly associated with Eri silk, produced by the silkworm Samia ricini.
Eri silk is naturally harvested after the moth emerges, so it is traditionally considered “peace silk.”

Advantages

✔ Ethical production
✔ Biodegradable and natural
✔ Supports traditional sustainable textile practices
✔ Often produced in small-scale artisan communities

Limitations

More expensive due to lower production efficiency

Less shiny than mulberry silk

Fibres are shorter, so fabrics may be slightly thicker

In simple terms, Ahimsa silk is “peace silk” made without killing the silkworm, prioritising ethical and sustainable production rather than maximum silk yield.